BIRD CARE

Housing Considerations	Wing Trimming
Beak and Claw (Nail) Trimming	Leg Band or Quarantine Ring Removal
Drafts	Bathing
Covering the Cage at Night	Hygiene
Diet Suppementation	How to Recognize Disease & What to Do
Droppings Can Reflect Illness	Feeding Caged Birds
Behavior-Normal & Abnormal	Enriching Your Bird's Life

HOUSING CONSIDERATIONS

Pet birds may be caged or allowed to remain on perches while the owner is home to supervise their activity. Birds should be confined to cages while their owners are away to avoid accidental injury and other misfortune. Unsupervised pet birds allowed "the run of the house" often get into trouble. Not only can they be terribly destructive to the home and its furnishings, but all homes contain objects that can be harmful (directly or indirectly) to pet birds. These include mirrors, windows, walls, house plants, electrical cords, and items containing harmful chemicals. Birds resting on open perches are usually content to remain there, and usually take flight only when frightened by a sudden movement or loud noise. Unfortunately, these "impromptu" flights are taken without a flight plan and birds usually wind up crashing into walls, doors, windows or mirrors because of their confusion and poor depth perception.

The major source of poisoning of pet birds is lead found in curtain (drapery) weights, curtain pulls, leaded and stained glass, fishing sinkers and ammunition carelessly discarded in ashtrays or dropped on the floor, costume jewelry, and in the lead wrapping around the tops of wine bottles, to name the most common sources. Most caged birds seem to have an affinity for this soft metal and love to chew on it. Poisoning results from eating even a small amount of lead. Lead poisoning can be successfully treated if diagnosed early enough. Caged birds allowed unrestricted freedom in the home might eat houseplants or chew on electrical cords, resulting in illness and injury. Some unsupervised pet birds chew on macramé, carpet and other similar fabrics and often swallow these materials, resulting in crop and intestinal impactions. Free-flying birds are also more vulnerable to injury from ceiling fans, hot stoves, and attack by pet dogs, cats and ferrets sharing the same household. It is wise not to underestimate the aggressiveness of our 4-legged friends, and to restrict contact between them and pet birds as much as possible. Birds allowed unrestricted freedom and flight within the home may escape through open doors and windows. Most bird owners have the mistaken notion that their bird would never fly away and leave them. Unfortunately, birds that have escaped the owner's home easily become disoriented when outdoors. This confusion makes return or capture of the escaped bird very unlikely.

The location of the cage and/or perch in the home is important. Some birds thrive in areas of heavy traffic, where they receive lots of attention and are part of all of the "goings on." Others seem to prefer more privacy and solitude. A pet bird should never be kept in the kitchen. In addition to the obvious gas fumes and occasional smoke from cooking food, there is another, much more dangerous, threat to birds in the kitchen. Super-heated Teflon and related brand-name non-stick pan coatings emit fumes that are deadly to all birds. This "accident" happens most often when someone inadvertently leaves a pan, coated with a non-stick surface, on a lighted gas or electric range burner. The pan becomes hot and the non-stick coating overheats, emitting toxic fumes. Birds that inhale these fumes die quickly.

There are several other considerations when allowing birds unrestricted freedom and flight within the home. Birds flying about may end up in the toilet bowl or in an uncovered pot or pan cooking on the stove. Free-flying birds tend to assume a more dominant posture in their relationship with people, and often become intolerably aggressive.

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WING TRIMMING

To be safe, all caged birds should have their wing feathers trimmed. The decision to deny a caged bird free, unrestricted flight (as in the wild) is subconsciously made by each bird owner at the time the bird is made a captive pet in the home. Wing trimming merely makes this confinement safer for the bird.

Flight feathers of both wings should be trimmed. If the bird takes flight for any reason, its descent to the floor is balanced and relatively controlled. Trimming the feathers on only one wing results in a precarious and unbalanced descent to the floor, often injuring the bird. Another disadvantage is that many birds with only one wing trimmed can fly as soon as one or two flight feathers have grown out on the trimmed side.

Some bird owners prefer not to trim the wings of their smaller caged birds (parakeets, cockatiels) because their flying brings the owner great enjoyment. These small caged birds have a smaller turning radius in flight than the larger ones. Consequently, the smaller birds can usually safely fly about most homes and apartments. One other advantage of not trimming the wings of these small birds is that it allows them to escape when in danger and threatened by any pet cats, ferrets or dogs in the home. However, generally it is best to keep your pet bird's wings trimmed at all times, except for the specific circumstances detailed above.

Trimming the wings is like trimming your finger- nails. If performed properly, the bird will experience no bleeding or discomfort. Trimming the wings makes taming the bird easier and usually shortens the time for taming. Further, this procedure changes the bird's appearance very little. Have an experienced veterinarian or veterinary technician perform this task and teach you how to properly do it.

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BEAK AND CLAW (NAIL) TRIMMING

Caged birds live in a very "geometric" world, in contrast to their wild counterparts. Most surfaces they perch on (perches, cage bars, etc) are smooth and regular. Consequently, the claws and beaks of pet birds tend to overgrow, and the surfaces of their beaks also tend to become rough and irregular.

In a wild bird's natural environment, this never arises because they are very active and wear down their claws on tree bark, rocks and other abrasive surfaces. Most caged birds need their claws trimmed periodically in spite of gimmicks often employed to keep them shortened. Sandpaper perch covers, for example, do not prevent nail overgrowth, but they do cause irritation and excessive wear of the soles of the feet. These perch covers should not be used.

An emery board, nail clippers or cautery instrument can be used to shorten the claws of smaller caged birds. A rapidly rotating grinding stone is used to trim the claws and to shorten, shape and smooth the beaks of larger birds. The results are very professional and satisfying. You should not attempt to trim the beak of your bird. If you do attempt to trim the claws, you must have something on hand with which to stop any bleeding. These clotting aids are called styptics. Recommended styptics include Kwik-Stop (Animal Research Co), silver nitrate sticks and ferric subsulfate (Monsel's solution).

If bleeding occurs while trimming the claws, do not panic. First, carefully restrain the bird. Next, squeeze the toe just above the claw (tourniquet effect). Then apply the styptic to the bleeding claw. Alternate the last 2 steps until the bleeding has stopped. Always seek veterinary help when your bird is bleeding or has bled. Bleeding always represents an emergency situation. Cornstarch or flour is a common household item that can be applied to bleeding claws or other wounds to help with blood clotting and to stop bleeding. The steps outlined above are first-aid procedures only and are not a substitute for veterinary assistance.

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LEG BAND OR QUARANTINE RING REMOVAL

Leg bands and quarantine rings are often applied to the legs of caged birds for regulatory purposes or to help breeders to identify individual birds. Once the bird is sold, the band or ring is unnecessary and should be removed. Most limb injuries (broken or sprained legs, etc) in caged birds involve a banded leg. Band removal should not be attempted by a bird owner. Only an experienced veterinarian or veterinary technician should perform this procedure.

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DRAFTS

Contrary to popular opinion, drafts are not harmful to healthy pet birds. A draft is really nothing more than a slight movement of air, usually accompanied by a mild temperature drop. A bird's feathers provide insulation against temperature extremes far in excess of what a draft represents. Drafts are, therefore, usually inconsequential to pet birds.

The notable exception to this is the cool and sometimes cold air produced by air conditioners. Most caged birds cannot tolerate the rapid temperature extremes produced by thermostatically controlled air conditioners. For this reason, cages and perches should not be positioned directly beside or beneath air conditioning, heating and ventilation outflows. Further, sick birds should always be removed from drafty circumstances to prevent heat loss.

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BATHING

Many exotic pet birds originally lived in tropical climates where rainfall is a daily, or otherwise frequent occurrence. Rainwater provides drinking water and an opportunity for bathing. Birds typically take advantage of this moisture by "showering" during a rainstorm or bathing in puddles formed by the falling rainwater. This keeps their feathers healthy, and restores and maintains a brilliant sheen to the plumage.

Caged birds should also be allowed to bathe periodically. Some prefer to bathe in a small container; others tolerate being sprayed or misted with water. Regular tap water and a spray bottle or plant mister should be used. Commercial solutions available for this purpose offer no particular advantage and may, in fact, be harmful. Many pet bird owners enjoy taking their bird into the shower with them on a regular basis.

Bathing activities can be undertaken once daily or as often as convenient. It is important to allow the bird to air dry in a warm room or in the warm sunshine. Hair dryers can be used to blow dry your bird, but the appliance must be held a safe distance (more than 10 inches away) from the bird to prevent burns.

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COVERING THE CAGE AT NIGHT

Covering the bird's cage at night is open to question. Because of the tremendous insulating capacity of feathers, covering a bird's cage at night may not be necessary to protect the occupant from the cool drafts during the night when the thermostat is usually turned down. The one exception to this would be on cold nights in colder climates.

A benefit of covering your bird's cage at night is that it provides a regular period of privacy not usually allowed during the day. Further, it tends to keep the bird quiet in the early morning when it would otherwise become active and vocal. If you now cover your bird's cage at night, continue to do so. If you have not done so in the past and find that your pet bird panics or acts agitated with a cover over its cage, do not continue covering the cage.

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HYGIENE

Good hygiene is an important part of husbandry for caged birds because most are confined to a relatively small living space. Consequently, droppings often accumulate on cage parts and perches, and tend to contaminate food and water cups, resulting in bacterial proliferation and mold growth.

Perches should be kept scrupulously clean at all times. Soap and water, cleansers and sand paper may be used to clean them, if necessary. Cage-bottom coverings should be changed daily. Cages should be given a thorough scrubbing and cleaning at least once a month. Sanitizing products work best if the cage and perches are first given a thorough soap and water scrubbing to remove all of the major contamination. Diluted chlorine bleach can be used if thoroughly rinsed off afterwards.

Food and water containers should be thoroughly cleaned once or twice daily before they are refilled. Bottlebrushes work best for cleaning water tubes and bottles. Water tubes and water bottles with a ball valve at the drinking end (water bottles for rodents) are increasing in popularity. They greatly reduce the possibility of contamination of the drinking water with droppings, uneaten food and saliva, all of which contribute to massive bacterial proliferation within the water and its container. The corners of food and water containers are the most common areas for bacterial buildup. Therefore, concentrate on those trouble spots while cleaning these containers.

Several sets of food and water cups should be maintained and used interchangeably. One set not in use can be soaking in a disinfectant solution. When possible, use a dishwasher for the final cleaning of these food and water containers because their extremely hot temperatures aid disinfection.

Rigid standards of hygiene must be maintained at all times. Disease-causing bacteria grow freely in most water containers. Small numbers of these bacteria from food, saliva or droppings can quickly multiply into millions of organisms in a water container, yet the water appears normal to you. Allow the water tap to run for about 3 minutes before filling the water container. Bottled water dispensers should be allowed to run for about 5 seconds before filling the drinking container. These bacteria do not affect most people but can have devastating consequences for caged birds if allowed to multiply.

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DIET SUPPLEMENTATION

Birds, like people, "are what they eat " Therefore, to be healthy, they must consume all of the necessary nutrients (protein, carbohydrates, fats, vitamins, minerals and water) in the proper proportions. Unfortunately, the exact nutritional requirements for all of the various caged birds have not been determined. Commercial bird diets advertised as "complete" or "balanced" are, therefore, not truly scientifically formulated. These diets are the result of breeding successes or have been derived from poultry diets.

Caged birds should be given vitamin supplements because of the uncertainties in their nutritional requirements. Powdered vitamins (Nekton-S: Nekton Products, West Germany) can be sprinkled over fruits, vegetables and other table food items to which the powder will adhere. Do not sprinkle powdered vitamins over seeds. Powders do not adhere to dry seeds and end up on the bottom of the food cup. Further, birds do not eat the seed hull, to which the powder may adhere.

A water-soluble vitamin (Avitron: Lambert Kay) should be added to the drinking water and replenished with each water change. Do not distribute liquid vitamins over seeds because they can cause the seeds to become rancid. If liquid vitamins are used, the water container should be scrubbed out thoroughly and changed 1-2 times daily because vitamin preparations tend to promote bacterial growth. Vitamin supplements intended for birds must contain Vitamin D3 because this is the only form of vitamin D that can be used by birds. Water soluble mineral preparations (Avimin: Lambert Kay or Neocalglucon: Sandoz) can be added to the drinking water. As with the vitamin preparations, the mineral supplements represent an "insurance policy" in case your bird's diet is lacking in one or more of these trace nutrients. Mineral supplements are especially important for egg-laying birds to replenish the minerals used in forming eggshells.

Additional sources of minerals may be offered to caged birds when needed. Cuttle bone and oyster shell may be offered to smaller caged birds. Oyster shell and mineral blocks may be provided for larger caged birds.

Because birds do not have teeth, they do not chew their food. The gizzard functions to break up seeds and other food items so that they can be digested. Wild birds consume sand or tiny pebbles ("grit") which pass into their gizzards and remain within this muscular organ to assist in the mechanical breakdown of seeds and other firm foodstuffs.

Grit apparently is not absolutely necessary for proper digestion among hook billed birds (parakeets, cockatiels, parrots). Hook billed birds that have been denied grit for extended periods do not pass whole, undigested seeds in their droppings. In fact, use of grit for these caged birds is controversial among aviculturists. Avian veterinary experts, however, are unanimous in their opinion that grit for hook billed birds is unnecessary and may, in fact, create serious problems (grit impaction and intestinal blockage) when consumed in large amounts. This is most likely to occur during periods of illness. For this reason, grit need not be given to hook billed caged birds, but it should be provided for passerine-type caged birds (finches, canaries). Owners of finches and canaries, however, should be vigilant and remove the grit from the cage at once if illness is suspected.

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DISEASE: HOW TO RECOGNIZE IT AND WHAT TO DO

Most disease in caged birds is directly or indirectly related to malnutrition and stress. Malnutrition most often stems from what the bird eats, rather than how much it eats. Most caged birds are offered enough food, but they do not receive enough of the proper foods and in the proper proportions. Stress results from any condition that compromises a bird's state of well-being. Examples include poor husbandry, inadequate diet, rapid temperature changes, and trauma.

All owners of caged birds must understand that birds tend to "hide" signs of illness. Birds can compensate for serious internal disease in such a way that they appear healthy externally. It is theorized that evolution has "taught" birds to hide signs of illness to avoid being harassed and possibly killed by other birds in the same flock.

Because of this disease-masking tendency, by the time a bird owner recognizes illness in a pet bird, the bird may have been sick for one to two weeks. Therefore, one cannot afford to take a "wait and see" approach and hope the bird improves. Be observant and act promptly. Learn to look for subtle signs of illness, and take special note of changes in the routine and habits of your pet bird. Seek veterinary assistance promptly if you suspect illness.

Following is a list of signs of illness easily recognizable by the concerned bird owner. Alone or in combination, they signify potential illness in your bird.

Signs of Illness

If you suspect illness in your bird, do not delay in making an appointment with your veterinarian. Either transport your bird to the doctor's office within its cage or use some other suitable container (smaller cage, pet carrier, box). Never visit the veterinarian with your bird perched on your shoulder. This method does not provide enough protection for your pet. Whatever container you choose should be covered to help minimize the stress to your sick bird during its visit. If you take your bird to the veterinarian in its own cage, do not clean it first. The material you discard could represent valuable information to the veterinarian.

After a veterinarian has initially treated a sick bird, home care is very important. Sick birds must be encouraged to eat and must be kept warm. Illness can cause significant weight loss in a matter of days, especially if the bird stops eating. If this happens, the patient must be hospitalized. However, even a sick bird with a "healthy appetite" can lose substantial weight because of the energy drain caused by the illness.

As a general rule of thumb, any caged bird that appears ill to its owner is seriously ill. One day of illness for a bird is roughly equivalent to 7 days of illness for a person. The tendency for pet bird owners in this situation is to first seek advice from pet stores and there to purchase antibiotics and other medication for their sick pet bird. With very few exceptions, these non-prescribed products are worthless. They allow the sick bird to become even sicker, and greatly compromise the results of diagnostic tests that the veterinarian may require to properly diagnose and treat the patient. Contact your veterinarian at the slightest sign of illness in your bird.

Supplemental heat (space heater, heated room, heating pad under the cage bottom or wrapped around the cage, heat lamp) is vital for a sick bird. It is especially necessary if the bird's feathers are fluffed up. Provide just enough heat so that the feather posture appears normal. Overheating the patient must be avoided at all costs. Heat-stressed birds pant, hold their wings away from the body, depress their feathers close to the body, and appear anxious and agitated. Heat stroke and death can result if the bird continues to be overheated. The environmental temperature should be kept at 80-95° F for sick birds. The patient's cage should be covered (top, back and sides) during its convalescence.

If a bird refuses to crack seeds or eat other foods that require a great deal of work, offer hulled or sprouted seeds or other "easy" foods, such as warm cereal, cooked rice, cooked pasta, vegetables, applesauce and other fruit sauces, and peanut butter. Remember, birds that refuse to eat must be hospitalized. Few people can successfully force-feed a sick bird at home.

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DROPPINGS CAN REFLECT ILLNESS

A bird's droppings reflect its state of health. Therefore, it is a good idea to pay close attention to them. A bird's digestive, urinary and reproductive tracts empty into a common receptacle called the cloaca and the products from them are expelled through the vent, which is the opening at the bird's "south end."

A normal dropping may contain excretory products from the intestinal tract, urinary tract or both. The fecal (stool) portion of the dropping should be green or brown. The color is influenced by the bird's diet. Normal droppings are formed into a coil, reflecting the size and diameter of the intestine. Along with the fecal portion is a variable amount of uric acid or urate ("whitewash") and urine ("water"). The urates are usually in a blob or mixed in with the feces and should be white or beige. The urine portion soaks the papers on the cage bottom for a variable distance beyond the perimeter of the dropping. It is important to regularly observe the amount of urine being excreted in the droppings. For this reason, such material as crushed corn cobs or walnut shells should not be used on the cage bottom. It is impossible to evaluate each dropping when these materials cover the cage bottom. They also tend to promote rapid growth of disease-causing fungi on the cage bottom, especially when wet with urine or water. Newspapers or paper towels are preferable. Smaller caged birds (finches, canaries, parakeets) tend to have an individual blob of fecal material with an accompanying amount of urate. The amount of urine excreted is usually quite small. A bird has diarrhea when the fecal portion of the dropping lacks form ("pea soup"). Diarrhea is not very common in birds. A dropping with a normal fecal portion but a large amount of urine around it represents a watery dropping (polyuria), not diarrhea! All diarrheic droppings appear loose, but not all loose or watery droppings constitute diarrhea. This is a very important distinction. Polyuric droppings may indicate disease (diabetes or kidney disease), but more often they result from increased water consumption or consumption of large amounts of fleshy fruits and vegetables.

The color, consistency and amount of each component of the droppings of normal caged birds frequently change, depending on the type of food consumed, amount of water consumed, amount of stress experienced, mood changes, and other factors. Abnormal droppings typically remain abnormal in appearance during the entire course of a bird's illness.

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FEEDING CAGED BIRDS

The exact nutritional requirements of caged birds are unknown, in spite of claims to the contrary by some product manufacturers, retailers and breeders. Far too much emphasis has been placed on seed and nut diets for caged birds. They represent a relatively nonperishable convenience for bird owners but are a miserably deficient diet for pet birds, especially the larger hook bills. Such diets are excessively rich in oils, extremely deficient in certain vitamins (notably vitamin A), and have unacceptable calcium to phosphorus ratio. Further, recent research has shown that the high oil content of these food items confers an addictive quality on them.

Fruit Juice Vs. Water

Whenever possible, fruit juice (apple juice is a good starter) should be substituted for drinking water. As an alternative, Tang (or its equivalent) can be added to drinking water. This may not be a practical suggestion for birds that habitually bathe in their drinking water. These additives or fruit juices provide more nutrients (vitamins, minerals, etc) than water alone and they help to mask the taste of other items (vitamins, antibiotics if necessary, etc) that may be added. Fruit juices that produce stains (for example, grape juice) should not be used. Water to which perishable items have been added or fruit juices must be changed every 6-8 hours and perhaps even more often on especially warm days, to prevent spoilage. Actually, even plain water should be changed with the same frequency for the same reasons.

Feeding Large Caged Birds

Larger caged birds (conures, parrots, cockatoos, macaws) should be fed as follows:

• Animal Protein Sources: Cooked meat (red meat, poultry, fish, etc), dog/cat kibble, cooked eggs (yolk and white), cheese, cultured milk products (cottage cheese, yogurt, etc). Raw and even pasteurized milk should not be offered because they contain coliform bacteria. Further, many caged birds are sensitive to milk sugar, which IS present in milk, but not in cultured milk products.

  Whole Grain Products: Dry cereals, cooked cereals, rice, uncooked oatmeal, granola, breads (whole wheat in particular), muffins, pasta (cooked or uncooked), crackers.

  Nuts, Trail Mix: In moderation (nuts are rich in oils and fats).

  Fruits and Vegetables: Fresh, frozen-thawed or canned are all acceptable. Fresh fruits and vegetables are the most nutritious. One parrot became ill after eating thawed frozen vegetables. Culture of these vegetables revealed harmful bacteria. For this reason, it may be advisable to cook thawed frozen vegetables, even though this reduces their nutritional value.

  "Junk Food" Items: In moderatioon or not offered at all.

Remember: Salty foods are acceptable for pet birds as long as they are given in moderation and as long as fresh water or fruit juice is always available.

Remember: When birds eat a lot of fruits and vegetables, excess water is excreted in the form of urine. This increased amount of urine in the droppings should not be confused with diarrhea.

The following foods can be prepared and offered to large psittacines (conure, parrot, cockatoo, macaw) on a daily basis. This list has been compiled with consideration to ease of preparation, economy of time, and maximum nutritional value. You should offer at least one item from each of the following food groups daily.

Whole-Grain Food (Replaces seed mixes and nuts)

Make up a mixture of any combination of the following ingredients (equal volumes of each) and store it in an air-tight container:

Your bird's individual preference for the various cereals may vary somewhat and depend on its body size.

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Juvenile Feeding Behavior and Defensive Behavior

Baby altricial (hatched naked and fed by the parents) birds have normal behaviors designed to either obtain food or protect themselves from danger. The first is the begging/chirping that prompts the parents to regurgitate food. When the parents begin to feed. The young bird begins head-bobbing to keep the flow of food coming from the parent.

Another normal behavior of baby psittacines is "swaying" and "growling" when the nest is disturbed. This behavior is self-defense designed to frighten away predators and gradually ceases as the bird weans.

Social Noise

In the wild, many species of birds congregate morning and at dusk for social interaction. These activities include screaming, eating, and grooming. Birds resume these social activities at dusk. A common complaint in the pet home is that pet psittacines scream morning and evening. This is normal behavior of the bird and it may be unrealistic to expect it to change. The bird will consider the humans in its home as its social contact and want to maintain the "communication" it would normally have with other birds. Try using this time to interact with the bird. Social activity is an important part of the bird's day and may serve to form a bond between you and the bird. The best attitude is to let the bird have its social noise and accept it as part of keeping a bird as a pet. If the bird(s) are outdoors try to prevent neighbor complaints; create a sound buffer between the birds and neighbors.

Biting Birds

Birds bite, some more than others. Controlling or deflecting the biting reflex is the answer.

Birds also bite to hold on to lift themselves up, like using a third hand. This is "grasping" rather than aggression biting.

Birds bite in self-defense. Until a bird is tamed and accustomed to handling by humans, it will try to bite. Avoidance of the bite until the bird is conditioned to handling is the best response. If biting becomes a problem, consult your veterinarian for the name of a reputable trainer.

Sleeping Habits

Many birds, especially smaller psittacines sleep comfortably hanging on the side of the cage or aviary by their beak and feet. Birds may also choose to sleep or bathe out in the rain or unprotected in cold weather and do not seem to suffer from the inconvenience. It is best not to disturb birds that have roosted outdoors for the night no matter how uncomfortable they may appear as they may not find another suitable perch before dark.

Inappropriate Copulating Behavior

Birds that are not paired with suitable mates or that are bonded with their owners, may attempt unnatural copulation. The targets of this misplaced behavior are often cage fixtures, toys, human hands, or other species cage mates. Such behavior should not be encouraged. Seeking a same species mate for the bird or removing the inappropriate objects of the bird's affection, are the most common responses to this problem. Birds ideally should be paired with a mate of the same species. If two species are paired that may produce hybrid offspring, it is best they be separated and properly paired. If the birds are cage mates where reproduction cannot possibly occur, such as a cockatiel and a budgie, the birds are of similar size, and one is not injuring the other, no harm is done by permitting them to remain together.

Talking Birds

Some parrots and softbills talk, most do not. If you want to teach the bird a few words, it is best to separate them from other birds as early as possible, and teach them by repetition. Investigate which species are likely to talk before purchase if talking ability is important in your choice of a pet bird.

Feather/Skin Picking

Birds that have underlying disease problems or psychological problems may pull feathers or tear at their own or another bird's skin. At the first sign of feather picking an avian veterinarian should see the bird. Watch for an unusual number of feathers on the bottom of the cage. This behavior is often precipitated by the absence of the primary owner, or by isolation or boredom. Birds with nothing to do all day are strong candidates for this disorder. If one bird is pulling feathers from a cage mate. the birds should be separated as this behavior can sometimes lead to injury if the feather pulling becomes too aggressive. Normal molt is a semiannual event not related to behavior.

Obsessive/Compulsive Behavior

If the bird develops a pattern of behavior that is nonsensical, incessant, or habitual, such as pacing, head bobbing, rocking, swinging the head or body, or spinning, it should be examined by a veterinarian. Causes could range from disease to boredom. Disease should first be ruled out as a cause, but boredom is a frequent cause of obsessive behavior. Every attempt should be made to provide the bird with environmental enhancements such as toys or ineresting foods. Nontoxic, non-injurious items that the bird can destroy or take apart are one choice.

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ENRICHING YOUR BIRD'S LIFE

Visual and physical stimulation is important in a bird's life. One of the easiest things to provide for a bird is a clean environment. Take time each day to provide clean food and water in clean dishes, change or clean the floor substrate, and change or clean soiled cage items.

Toys provide activity involving the beak and feet, and give the bird distraction from boredom. Many toys are available from stores, and many can be made or improvised at home. If toys are purchased, check to be sure that they cannot be broken by the bird. Some toys, such as wood objects, are designed to be chewed apart by the bird,but birds should not be able to break plastic or glass into shards.

Some toys for smaller birds, such as lories or conures or the small cockatoos, include tennis balls, wood blocks or beads, sections of heavy nautical rope (natural fiber) tied in knots, and short lengths of PVC pipe that the bird can either climb into (larger) or carry around (smaller). Large birds, such as macaws and cockatoos, need heavy-duty toys that cannot be shredded or that can be shredded safely. Some birds such as lories will play in a paper bag andd most birds will get hours of enjoyment from bottle caps and kitchen utensils. Keep enough toys so they can be alternated and washed often.

Toys to avoid include breakable plastic toys, toys that contain lead weights, leaded glass, lead wine seals, toxic plants, synthetic materials such as pieces of looped nylon carpet or nylon yarn, and toys with openings where the bird can become trapped or get a foot or neck caught.

Food and natural toys are ideal. Fresh nutshells, (walnut, coconut, Brazil nut) are excellent. The list of foods that provide interest, taste and nutrition is varied and the foods easy to obtain: Granola cereals; fresh corn-on-the-cob with part of the husk left on (birds like to tear up the husk), oranges, bones from your dinner, peas in the pod, fresh broccoli, and popcorn (no salt, no butter) are just a few. Anything that your bird can open and eat, or not tear up and still play with without danger, is entertainment. Junk or salted foods, chocolate, alcohol, or sugar (candy) should not be offered at any time.

Socialization is important in preventing boredom. Pet birds should be included in the family unit. If the bird is tame and not afraid of noises such as vacuum cleaners, taking the bird from room to room on a freestanding perch while you perform household chores can be a social event. Some families take their birds to work with them.

Play and time outside of the cage can be an important daily activity. Give pet birds time each day for individual attention. If the bird can safely come out of the cage, time on a playpen is beneficial. Most playpens have areas for climbing and swinging. Wood or rope ladders, swings, and dangling articles such as keys all make interesting toys. Be sure that the bird is supervised when it is outside of its cage and not permitted to climb onto cages of other birds or have access to household dangers such as toxic plants, lead or toxic items (e.g. leaded glass, window putty). Trimmed wings are essential for birds permitted access out of their cages, Never leave a bird unattended outside of its cage. Use a cage that can be seat-belted into the car so the bird can see out of the window and take the bird with you on short trips. Don't permit the bird freedom in a moving car. Do not leave a bird alone in a car during the day.

Taking your pet bird into the shower every morning or once a week provides socialization, entertainment, and encourages bathing behavior. Shower perches are available commercially. Bathing is a popular social event for birds and they need the baths. Daily bathing has helped many birds that develop self-mutilation habits.

Visual stimulation is important if the bird is left alone for long periods. Place the cage by a window. Be sure there is no direct sun- light on the cage during the day, or that there are places in the cage that are always shaded. If there is no perception of threat on the bird's part, you can also place other birds' cages nearby so they can see each other. Do not place raptors next to other species. Pet birds, however, can usually be placed side by side so long as they can't reach into each other's cages. Many birds enjoy the company of birds of the same species or other similar species (such as pionus with Amazons), but check for compatibility. Bonded pairs may not benefit from being placed near other birds.

Auditory stimulation is also important. CDs, radio, or TV can provide sound for the bird(s). The things that make a bird's life more interesting and rewarding are easy for most people to provide. We are responsible for their lives and we need to meet that responsibilty.

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