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717-840-1025

CAT CARE


FELINE VACCINATIONS

Listed below are the standard vaccinations that we recommend for your cat:

Feline 4 in 1 Vaccine (Rhinotracheitis-Calici Virus Panleukopenia-Pneumonitis): This vaccine is given annually. If your cat has no vaccination history, or is overdue, he/she will need the first year's doses repeated in three weeks. Kittens should receive this vaccine every 3-4 weeks until they are 16 weeks old.

Feline Leukemia Vaccine: Feline leukemia is a fatal disease caused by a virus. It is very common in some cat populations. This vaccination is just as important for your cat as the 4 in 1 vaccine. A blood test is performed before this vaccine is given to be certain that your cat has not already been infected with the virus. The vaccine would not be harmful to a cat that is already infected, but neither would it do any good and so it would be a waste of money. Also, it would lead you to believe that your cat was protected from a disease, which it already harbored. The initial vaccination is repeated in 3 weeks for kittens or adults. This is followed by a booster once a year. Although this vaccine is especially important for cats that go outdoors or have contact with other felines, we recommend it for all cats. This is because of the devastating nature of this disease, and because unanticipated contact may occur when an indoor cat sneaks out or a stray kitten is brought home.

F.I.P. Vaccine (Feline Infectious Peritonitis): This is a recently developed vaccine for a disease that has been around for a long time and it has been well received by anyone who has ever lost a cat to FIP. This is a fatal disease that some cats get with no exposure to other cats. The vaccine is given as nose drops and is reported to be 90% effective. If you want the most complete protection for your pet, please ask about this vaccine. This vaccine is also initially given as two doses 3 weeks apart. For the annual booster a single dose is sufficient as long as the pet is kept on schedule and does not become overdue.

Rabies Vaccine: Rabies vaccine is required for all cats (and dogs) in Pennsylvania. Rabies is always fatal and is one of the few animal viruses that can be transmitted to humans. The initial rabies vaccine is good for one year. If boosters are received on time they provide protection for 3 years.

Feline Heartworm Disease and GI Parasites: Based on your pet's stool test, medicines will be given to kill intestinal parasites. Cats can also get Heartworm Disease. It is difficult to diagnose in cats and progresses to sudden death. Feline Heart Guard, given once monthly, prevents and treats many Feline Heartworm disease cases. The manufacturer also guarantees it will prevent intestinal roundworms, hookworms and whip worms or they will pay for the treatment! This provides a great extra insurance against parasites for your cat. Please ask about it if you are interested.

Ringworm and Bordetella Vaccines: These are new feline vaccines which are useful for cats in certain situations. Ask our veterinarians if these vaccines are beneficial to your cat(s).

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THREE DISEASES POSE DEADLIEST RISKS TO YOUR CAT

Your cat could be at risk from one or more of the "Big Three"diseases of felines. Feline leukemia (FeLV), feline infectious peritonitis (FIP), and feline immunodeficiency virus (FIV)rank one, two and three, respectively, as infectious disease killers of cats in the United States. These diseases are contagious, incurable and most often fatal. Caused byviruses, they affect the cat's immune system. And in somecases, FeLV will predispose a cat to FIP, or vice versa.

To protect pets, concerned cat owners should be aware of this disease and how they're spread. But there is good news as well. Diagnostic tests are available that can determine if a cat has feline leukemia or FIV. And vaccines can protect against feline leukemia and FIP.

Feline Leukemia... protection for the number one killer: The first feline leukemia vaccine became available in 1985, yet FeLV still kills nearly one million cats a year. The most likely explanation is that owners remain unaware of this danger to their pets and the steps they can take to protect them.

Cats get feline leukemia through close contact with infected cats. Catsin multi-cat households and outdoor cats are most at risk.

FeLV attacks and weakens a cat's immune system, leaving it susceptible to many life-threatening infections. It can also cause cancer. Not all cats exposed to the virus become infected; some fight it off and become immune, and others become carriers.

Once a cat is permanently infected, though, the virus shortens its life. About 83% of infected cats die within three years, and almost half of these die within the first year.

To protect your cat, first have it tested to make sure it doesn't carry FeLV; if it doesn't, it should be vaccinated. An initial two doses, three weeks apart, followed by annual boosters are recommended. Kittens as young as nine weeks can receive protection.

FIP... Vaccine now available for this deadly disease: Although scientists identified FIP a quarter century ago, the first breakthrough didn't occur until 1991 when the first vaccine was introduced. There is no cure for this disease. FIP kills at least half a million cats a year in this country.

Because there are no tests to distinguish FIP from other, less harmful, related feline viruses, FIP is easily misdiagnosed. Its symptoms--weight loss, lethargy and vomiting, for example--are also misleading because they're common to many other diseases. But once symptoms are seen, it's generally too late for all but trying to ease the cat's suffering.

Cats get different forms of FIP. In the wet form, severe respiratory distress causes a buildup of fluid in the cat's chest or abdomen. A dry form attacks the cat more slowly, and an early diagnosis is hindered by a general lack of observable signs. Cats can also have a combination of these two forms of FIP.

FIP is especially hard on young cats 6 months to 5 years of age and on cats more than 11 years old. Cats most at risk include those in multi-cat households, purebreds and those allowed outdoors. FIP is spread through direct contact between cats, or even in the womb of an infected mother cat. Stress increases infection rates, as do steroids, crowding, malnutrition and other infections such as feline leukemia.

The FIP vaccine is given as nose drops. Healthy cats 16 weeks of age or older should receive two doses three to four weeks apart, followed by a yearly booster.

Check with us to determine the level of risk your cat faces from FIP and whether vaccination is appropriate. FIP is currently the most serious disease of cats for which there is no effective treatment. Prevention is the best medicine.

Diagnosis allows for preventive FIV measures: FIV belongs to the same subfamily of viruses as the virus that causes human AIDS (although the FIV virus is not communicable to humans). This virus can lie dormant in cats for years before signs of illness appear.

Two to six weeks after exposure to FIV, an infected cat may have a fever and swollen lymph nodes. The cat may then appear normal for years. But the last, and fatal, stage brings a weakened immune system and other infections. This can last more than three years.

FIV is spread primarily through biting. Outdoor cats or cats exposed to outdoor cats are at high risk. And aggressive males are at highest risk.

There is no FIV vaccine, but blood tests can determine if a cat is infected. Protect against FIV by keeping cats indoors, neutering male cats to reduce the urge to roam or fight and having any new cat tested before introducing it into a household with other cats.

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CAT COLDS

Cats do get colds like people. They do not share the same germs with people, though. A cat cold is referred to as an Upper Respiratory Infection or URI. URls are very contagious between cats. The germs can be spreading even before the symptoms show.

Your cat's basic yearly vaccination protects them from several of the most common and serious URls. Many times the sick cat patient is suffering from a combination of symptoms including nasal congestion , red and tearing eyes, and fever with loss appetite and listlessness. Not being able to smell their food coupled with a fever will keep the cat from eating which must be taken care of within a day. Medications will bring down the fever and control symptoms till the URI passes. Remember not to medicate your cat with aspirin, Tylenol or Advil- all very toxic to cats!

If you have pet cats and acquire a new cat or kitten, you should keep her in quarantine for about a week. If she is going to come down with an infection she will start showing signs and you can treat her. This will protect your other cats. Even if they are vaccinated, this may be a different germ.

Unfortunately these germs can pass along in any multi cat situation including the animal shelter. The germs are passing before the cats are obviously ill and even with good hygiene, it is very hard to prevent. Just watch for symptoms the first week. The majority are very treatable with a trip to the vet and some loving care in their new home.

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LITTER CHOICES

There are several kinds of litter available for use in your pet's litter pan. Personal preference is the deciding factor, but you may need to consider your cat's as well as your preferences!

How often you change the litter pan contents depends on which type you are using, how many cats you have, and how many litter pans you provide. One pan per cat has been suggested as a rule of thumb. If you are diligent and the cats don't intimidate each other, you may get by with less.

Clay litter is the the most common and probably the cheapest. It can be dusty and stick to paws. Scoop daily and change completely once a week.

Sand or Clumping litter is nice because you can scoop out the urine as it clumps up just like the stool. It too can be tracked outside the pan.

Dirt or pine shavings have also been used , but are not as practical as the other litter types. These are sometimes chosen for behavioral reasons. For instance, a cat that was used to using dirt outside before it was brought to an inside home.

Keeping the pan clean lets you notice if there are any health problems current such as diarrhea. It also encourages good litter pan habits. Some cats may refuse to use a soiled pan and go elsewhere in the home. It pays to prevent problems by keeping a clean pan readily available.

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ADOPTING A STRAY CAT

So there is a stray cat hanging around your house and you are starting to worry about him. You are even thinking about adopting him, but what should you do first?

You should start off by taking him to the vet's which is important for his health as well as any other pets you may have and yourself! If he's friendly enough, put him in a box to transport him. If he's still a bit frightened, you may need to borrow a live trap from your vet or shelter. The vet will likely first advise a feline leukemia and aids test. These diseases are higher in the stray population and have serious consequences. We always hold our breadth when running this test because everyone wants to see a cat get their first break in life. After that, the cat may need to be treated for ear mites, fleas, worms, or a cold. He will need to start his vaccinations including rabies. And you will want him neutered (or spayed) as soon as possible.

Gradual introductions are the rule of thumb when bringing a new adult cat into an already cat-owned home. Start with the new one in a separate room and progress to visiting through a carrier. Never force them on each other and expect a little bit of fireworks the first few days or even weeks.

You can get further advice from your veterinarian or the SPCA Shelter staff.

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WHY DO I NEED TO VACCINATE MY INDOOR CAT FOR RABIES?

It actually is the law for all pet dogs and cats to be vaccinated for rabies. The reason the rules are are so strict is because rabies presents a human health hazard. If it goes undetected and untreated, it is fatal. So it is worthwhile to prevent it.

From the pet's point of view, it is also fatal. Although an indoor cat or dog is certainly lower risk for an exposure to rabies, they aren't no risk. Escaping from the house and being unfamiliar with the outdoors may make them more vulnerable. You don't always know that your pet has been exposed. If your pet is bitten by any unknown animal and hasn't been kept up to date with rabies vaccinations, they must be considered a possible rabies threat . Worse, if he or she bites a human, even without a known exposure, and is not vaccinated, the health department will place strict guidelines on quarantine.

Remember, vaccination can mean the difference between life and death for your pet and even for a family member. Why risk it?

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RABIES

Rabies is still a serious problem in the United States. The reason for the concern is that it is one of the few diseases that crosses the species line. In other words, most viruses have a favorite host, one particular species. Rabies does not play favorites. It will infect about any warm blooded mammal, including humans. Since there is no cure, the stress is placed on prevention.

Rabies vaccines are required by law (and highly advisable) for dogs and cats. Cats who go outside are at highest risk. If bitten by an unknown animal, rabies will have to be considered a possibility and great care must be taken. Quarantines and a other special measures may be required. Don't risk it!

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YOUR PET'S DIET

There are many right ways to feed your pet, but there are also wrong ways! As much as our pets seem part human, their dietary requirements do differ from ours. Most pet food manufacturers do research and try to provide a good balanced diet for our pets. Some cheaper brands may not have consistency in the quality of ingredients. Another problem is their attempt to make the food appealing to the human owner by adding food colorings and other additives to make the food appear fit for human consumption. I don't believe our animal companions pay much attention to the food's appearance. Plain brown is fine with them.

Life stage diets are a good idea. A puppy or kitten can use higher levels of energy and protein. The senior pet needs less of these. Protein can actually harm an old pet's liver and kidneys.

If you have pets in different age groups, you can try segregating during meal time or compromise on what each gets by choosing a middle ground such as adult maintenance.

Some pets do well when introduced to a free choice diet where they can partake of as much dry food as they want when they want it. This is very easy for the pet and owner. Pets brought up this way surprisingly do not overeat. Of course their are some furry gluttons out there who must be given restricted amounts or they would surely overeat.

A common cause of obesity in pets is too much people food which is often high in fat. If this is true of your pet, just eliminating the table food may bring him or her down to the normal weight. Give snacks of regular dog food only in these cases. There are low fat diets varying in calorie restriction for reducing your pet's weight.

When you acquire a pet other than a dog or cat it is your responsibility to read and learn about its needs including diet. Your veterinarian and the SPCA are good sources of information. Each species is different. For example, many owners of pet birds provide a seed only diet. This has been proven to be an inadequate diet. Pet birds will suffer a significantly shorter life on an all seed diet. They require pelleted formulas as well as fresh fruits, vegetables and grains. Feed your pet wisely for a long life.

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A PILL TO SWALLOW

From time to time, you may need to give your pet a pill of medicine prescribed by your veterinarian. Here are some tips, but a lot depends on your pet's temperament, and your determination!

Hiding the medicine in a favorite food is an obvious place to start. Cheese has a strong smell and flavor and can often mask the concealed medicine. If your pet picks out the offending medicine, trying something sticky, like peanut butter for dogs or margarine for cats. The peanut butter is hard to spit out after its been rubbed off on the roof of their mouth !

We don't recommend putting medicine in a bowl of your pet's regular food, unless you watch to see if they eat it all. Otherwise, its hard to tell if they got their medicine this way.

You may be better off just pushing the pill down your pet's throat. The trick here is to catch "Fluffy" off guard. Don't let them see you making all the preparations. Have the pill or dropper ready in hand and pop into their mouth. If you catch them sleeping, it's usually down their throat before they know what happened!

The technique for pilling is to either use a pilling syringe (pill gun) and quickly push it to the back of the throat, then press the dispensing plunger, or use your fingers to do the same. We usually hold the pets head with our left hand holding across their cheek bones, tilt the head back slightly, then use the a finger of the right hand (reverse for "lefties"), to pull down the lower jaw and plunge your thumb and pointer finger, which are holding the pill down their throat. The further back you place the pill, the more likely they will swallow it.

Liquid droppers are available for some medications. The head is held the same way and the dropper is pushed into the mouth behind the large canine tooth.

Ask your vet for a demonstration or methods for other species such as birds and pocket pets. Too bad our animal friends don't know we are showing how much we love them by pushing things into their mouths!

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FLEAS, FLEAS, FLEAS

There are many new products on the market for flea control. The fleas should be worried because these products are giving humans the advantage in the age old flea wars.

There are oral tablets, oils you place on one spot only, and new super sprays for pet and environment. Many of the traditional products such as flea collars are better now too. Mixed in with the new are the old that are still okay, but haven't improved much. Some also control ticks. Others can be used on dogs but not cats. A few won't get washed off. You can mix certain products, but not others. Many products are available by prescription only at the vet's. In addition to the improved efficacy, most of the new active ingredients are much less hazardous to the environment. This is very important and makes me feel better about putting it on the patient! Just coming out are tablets that combine the flea control with heartworm and even intestinal parasite control... oh boy!

Now, are you properly confused? Don't feel bad. There are seminars for the veterinarians just to keep up with storm of new formulations. Your veterinarian and staff will help you chose. Fleas, beware!

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PET PEDICURES

Most pets need some help from you to keep their nails nice for indoor living. Your pet's nails are too long if the are tapping on the floor, pushing up on his her toes or getting caught on things.

It is best to use nail clippers designed for pets because they have curved blades which are less crushing. Nail clippers should be chosen to suit your pet's size. We prefer special cat nail scissors for our feline nail trims. Try to make it a low stress situation by casually coming over to your pet and trimming a few nails ,while rewarding them with pets and even treats.

Cat claws grow differently than dogs'. On a 1 to 2 month cycle, a cat will shed the outer layer of its claw and a new sharp claw will be revealed. This is why cats like scratching posts. It helps them get off the shedding layer. You can do an effective nail trim on a cat by just trimming the sharp tip. Cutting them shorter will not last longer.

Dog front nails usually grow longer than backs. If the nails have been overgrown for awhile, the blood vessels may have grown too long also. In this case you may need to ask your veterinarian to perform a nail cautery. At home, take small slivers at a time and check the cut edge. If you see a pink dot in the center, stop! If you do hit a bleeder with this method, you won't have gone too deep. Use pressure and hemostatic powder or cornstarch to help clot it quickly.

If you are just not comfortable with doing a nail trim or your pet is particularly squirmy, you may prefer to take your pet to a professional.

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SUMMER RELATED PET PROBLEMS

Veterinarians are usually busiest in the summer months. Summer offers more opportunities to get outside and sometimes meet up with hazards. Here are just a few:

Unfortunately, we see more "Hit By Cars" than at any other time. Owners let their pets out for the nice weather and often they are unsupervised or off the leash.

Fight wounds with the other neighborhood pets who are also out more now increase. Pets can also have tangles with wildlife. Be sure your pets' rabies vaccinations are current.

Heartworm disease season has begun. This disease is transmitted by mosquitoes. Your veterinarian has preventative medications.

Intestinal parasite eggs are developing on the soil and are picked up on your pets feet.

Fleas! Of course fleas prefer the warm weather and are in their glory in the summer months. Ticks also are moving into peak season. They are found most often in the woods and tall grass.

Sunburn only occurs on sparsely haired areas and most often on white pets. White dogs with a pink (unpigmented) noses are most susceptible.

Heat stroke can occur after only a few minutes in a parked car. If your pet is outdoors, be sure he/she has access to shade and water. Check on them frequently.

Pregnancy needs an opportunity and being out on their own can result in litters that are hard to find homes for.

If they're out on their own or escape your yard, your pet will may add to the numbers of lost pets. Help prevent this with supervision, tags and microchipping. Ask your veterinarian or the SPCA staff if you would like advice on any of these topics.

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ANTIFREEZE DANGER

This is a good time of year to remind you about the dangers of antifreeze. If drained on to the pavement instead of using a pan for proper disposal, this substance can kill animals! Unfortunately, antifreeze has a sweet taste and attracts animals, including dogs and cats, to lick it. Just a tiny amount can be fatal. If you witness this occurring , take the animal to the vet immediately!

The good news is that some caring companes have formulated an antifreeze that is nontoxic. Why not ask for, and buy these products. It may save lives and reward the companies that made this effort.

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IF YOU FIND A LOST PET

Obviously, if it is unsupervised. It needs assistance. House cats that get lost outside need your help as much as a lost dogl Check for a collar and tag. If it has a tag. check the number and address and call the owners or drive It home. A rabies tag can usually be traced through the veterinary hospital from which it was issued. A dog license, through the license agency. While you are doing this and if possible, place the animal in a safe place. It is helpful to keep a spare loop lease in the car.

Do not risk injury to yourself. If you can not catch the animal, at least report it the police department, who will dispatch the proper personel to try and help. They will then have a report of where it was last sighted in case the owner calls in. If there is no tag, you can do one or more of the following: call a report or take the animal to the SPCA, keep the animal a few days and place a free found ad in the classified and even post signs and ask around the neighborhood. It is a good feeling to help animal in need.

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SPAY & NEUTER SURGERIES
(Ovariohysterectomy and Castration)

What is ovariohysterectomy? This is the surgical removal of the uterus and ovaries from the abdomen of a female animal.

What is castration? This is the surgical removal of the testicles from the scrotum (an ablation also removes the scrotum and must be requested). Cryptorchid (hidden testicle) castration requires removing a testicle that never descended from the abdomen.

What is the purpose? The spay is the only foolproof method of birth control. It is permanent. A spayed animal no longer will have heat cycles and therefore no unpleasant spotting of blood and false pregnancies of dogs in heat or howling in cats. A neutered male dog has decreased roaming, mounting and aggressive behavior and is easier to train. Male cats must have this surgery to be a house pet because it usually eliminates spraying and decreases the strong tomcat urine odor. The health benefits are significant. There is a much lower risk of reproductive tract cancers and no chance of a serious uterine infection. Remember, mammary and testosterone related cancers are particularly common in older unspayed or uncastrated pets.

Do pets gain weight after the surgery? Your pet should not gain weight if kept on a balanced diet and has regular exercise.

Should pets have one litter before they are spayed? There is absolutely no benefit to having had a litter. With the current numbers of unwanted pets and the health concerns and costs of a pregnancy, and unless you are a professional breeder, it is not recommended to breed your pet. Intact male animals definitely contribute to pet population tragedy.

How is a spay performed? The surgery is performed under anesthesia. The abdomen is shaved, scrubbed, and prepared for surgery. An incision is made through the skin and under-lying layers of tissues. The ovaries, uterus and vessels are identified, and ligated and removed. The layers are sutured back together. Your pet will spend the night and be checked before going home the next day. Most animals spring back amazingly fast, especially when compared to their human friends having similar procedures!

How is castration performed? The animal is anesthetized, the lower abdomen and scrotal areas are clipped, scrubbed, and prepped for surgery. One midline incision is made above the scrotum and the testicles are removed through it. The vessels are ligated and the incision is sutured. Male animals usually go home the same day as surgery. They rarely even look back!

Please ask us if you have any questions about these safe and common procedures.

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WHAT TO DO IF YOUR PET IS LOST OR STOLEN

1.
Act immediately--Every second counts.
2.
Contact the York County SPCA or call them at 225-5532, and also please send us your pet's photo.
3.
Contact the York Kennel Club Lost & Found at (717) 235-3914.
4.
Contact the following Radio Stations: WOYK at 266-6606, WYCR at 792-0098 or 637-3831. You must call daily.
5.
Contact Animal Rescue at 993-3232.
6.
Contact Animal Control & Rescue League at 244-9747.
7.
Contact State Dog Wardens: Cathy Purcell at (717) 259-8651 (South of Route 30) Donald Neuman at (717) 432-7192 (North of Route 30).
8.
Contact the local Police Departments and Animal Control Officers for the muinicipality you live in and also surrounding areas.
9.
Contact the York Newspapers. They will run a lost/found ad for free for four days. (717) 767-4237.
10.
Put posters/fliers in local businesses and give them to: local veterinarians, area groomers, your mail carrier, neighbors, area children and regular delivery people.

We hope that you never have to use this information, but if you do, we hope that your pet is safely returned to you!

Please ALWAYS protect your pet by having them wear PERSONAL ID TAGS with your name, address and phone number.

The York County SPCA offers free ID Tags for the safety of your pet. You do not have to adopt an animal from the SPCA shelter to request a SPCA Tag.

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PERMANENT IDENTIFICATION

Tatooing: It's a good idea to tattoo your pet as a means of permanent identification. You may choose any identifying number, but it's important to pick a number that won't change over time or be hard to trace. The best is a lifetime license number.

A lifetime Dog License is available to owners who tattoo their dog. This license is much more economical over the dog's life than annual licenses. Currently, the price for a lifetime license from PA is $21 or $51, depending on your dog's sex and spay/neuter status. In order to qualify you must have your dog tattooed with the assigned PA number. If you are interested, you should plan ahead to get your Lifetime License Number.

This can be obtained from the County Treasurer's Office: 1 W. Market St., 771-9224.

An excellent time to plan your pet's tattoo is when he/she is already under anesthesia for another procedure such as spaying or neutering. We believe the tattooing procedure to be too uncomfortable for an alert animal.

Microchip ID Tags: Micro-chipping under the skin is a new and permanent way to identify your pet. It can be used on any species. Zoos have been using them for years! A special scanner can read the chip's number. Any veterinarian who uses the chips will have a scanner. Most animal shelters, including our own York County SPCA, uses the scanner on all incoming animals in an effort to reunite lost or stolen pets with their owners. Once your pet has been identified at a scanner location, they will be traced through our office, where we will keep permanent records of the ID numbers and trace the number back to you. Alternatively, you may elect to register yourself directly with the chip company (they charge a one time fee for this), which will result in your being contacted directly.

The chip is so small that neither you nor your pet will know it is there. Since it is under the skin it can never be lost. We feel this is a very valuable tool in preventing pets from being permanently separated from their owners.

It is still important for your pet to wear a collar tag as this helps neighbors easily identify your pet!

Please contact us if you have any questions about tattooing or micro-chipping and the costs of these procedures.

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