POCKET PET CARE

How to Care for Gerbils	What to Expect From Your Guinea Pig
What to Expect From Your Rabbit	How to Care for Rats and Mice
How to Care for Ferrets

HOW TO CARE FOR GERBILS

Gerbils are naturally friendly and curious, but, like many other "pocket pets," they often end up at shelters because their caregivers are unable to provide them with adequate companionship and care. Gerbils can be happy and healthy almost anywhere, including during their temporary stay at your shelter, provided you follow these guidelines.

Keep Old Friends Together: Unlike hamsters, who are solitary creatures, gerbils are naturally social and friendly to humans-and to familiar gerbils. If they're housed together from a young age, they'll probably be happy as clams. So if you receive surrendered same-sex gerbils who have been living together, there's probably no need to separate them when they come into your shelter. But beware of introducing new gerbils to the cage! Gerbils are clannish, and if you try to place newcomers together, they may live up to the meaning of their Latin name: "little clawed warriors".

Give Them Cool Digs: In the wild, gerbils inhabit cool, arid places; you should try to house them in similar conditions. A quiet, dimly lit space far away from noisy dog kennels is best. Use a cage with a solid floor-a converted aquarium tank works well. If you must use a wire cage, make sure that the bars are no more than a centimeter apart; gerbils may look plump, but they can squeeze through small spaces as if they were made of jello. They're also great jumpers, so make sure their temporary home has a secure top. Line the tank with unprinted newspaper, and add timothy hay or shredded paper for burrowing. Avoid cedar shavings, which can irritate gerbils' respiratory systems and livers. Finally, furnish a gerbil home with a water bottle, a nest box, exercise toys, chewing blocks, and lengths of paper-towel tubes for hiding. You'll have created the ultimate in creature comfort.

Give Them the Spice of Life: Though gerbils love sunflower seeds, these low-calcium, high-fat grains should not form the basis of their diet. Give your guests a variety of goodies, and they'll be happy and healthy. The main substance of their meals should be a mix of dried kidney and lima beans, lentils, and black eyed peas. Supplement these with puffed wheat; dried bananas, carrots, and apples; unshelled, unsalted peanuts; rabbit food pellets; color-free dry dog and cat food; and unsalted sunflower and pumpkin seeds. Add alfalfa hay and fresh veggies-broccoli, carrots, corn, and cauliflower-on a regular basis, and your gerbils will have the gourmet diet they crave. Make sure your guests always have clean water in their hanging bottles.

Ensure Zero Population Growth: Male and female gerbils share the care for their offspring in a way that would shame many human couples. But while family loyalty is one of the animals' sweetest traits, gerbils do take family to extremes, so be sure to separate males from females. Gerbils have an average of five pups per litter and can have litters every month, so take care to prevent the gerbils in your care from breeding. Like most small rodents, they reach sexual maturity at about five weeks of age; individual animals might mature sooner, however, so separation at 21 days is the safest policy.

Keep House: Gerbils are among the cleanest rodents. They create tidy spaces, and they ask no less of their keepers. Help them out by cleaning their bathroom area daily; yes, believe it or not, these little guys can be trained to use the same area. The bedding in the rest of the cage or tank should be changed twice a week, and the tank should be disinfected and allowed to dry before adding new bedding and replacing paper-towel tubes and playthings. Keep your gerbils in another cage while you clean and disinfect their living space.

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WHAT TO EXPECT FROM YOUR GUINEA PIG

The guinea pig, or cavy, is a rodent that comes from South America. It is related to the chinchilla and porcupine. Guinea pigs are not considered endangered or threatened in the wild. In South America, guinea pigs are often hunted or raised for meat, but free-ranging animals are not trapped for the pet trade. In the United States, the guinea pig is kept as a pet, and also used in research. Hobbists breed purebred guinea pigs for shows, but pet stores usually sell cross-bred animals. There are eleven guinea pig breeds recognized in the show ring, including American/English, White-crested, Abyssinian, Peruvian, Silky and Teddy.

Guinea pigs are not aggressive, preferring to flee in the face of danger rather than bite or scratch. They are sensitive creatures and can become panicked if startled by abrupt and loud noises.

Guinea pigs are intelligent and quiet animals. As a solitary pet, it may bond closely to you, greeting you with chirps, purrs, squeaks or whistles. Guinea pigs do not require as much of your time as some other pets, but the more time you spend with them, the more interactive they will be.

They are very active creatures and enjoy running through tunnels and negotiating mazes. They may play with toys, and if you have more than one guinea pig, they will play games of chase with each other.

Guinea pigs are social animals and will establish a pecking order, frequently male-dominated. Overcrowding may incite aggression, and non-castrated males may be aggressive toward other males in the presence of females, Guinea pigs do not adapt well to changes in their food or environment. Hair barbering (chewing of the fur) may occur in situations of stress and overcrowding.

Is Your Guinea Pig a Male or Female? To determine the sex of your guinea pig, examine its external genitalia: male guinea pigs have large scrotal sacs, and their penis can be easily extruded with gentle pressure, while females have a vaginal membrane. Females are usually smaller than males.

What Should You Feed Your Guinea Pig? Unlike other animals, guinea pigs are not able to synthesize vitamin C on their own; therefore, a dietary source of vitamin C must be provided daily. Commercial pellets specially fomulated for guinea pigs contain vitamin C, but the level may be affected by storage conditions or time. You can provide supplementation with a quarter of an orange or a small amount of kale or cabbage daily to ensure adequate vitamin C intake. Fresh timothy or alfalfa hay may be offered for additional fiber. Purchasing hay through a farm store ensures freshness.

Guinea pigs should have fresh, filtered drinking water in a water bottle at all times. Check the water bottle frequently because they like to play with the sipper tube, which may cause leakage. Sometimes they even push food up into the sipper tube.

If the nails or teeth of guinea pigs need to be trimmed regularly, evaluate the diet, as it may be inadequate.

Where Should I Keep My Guinea Pig? Your guinea pig's cage should be at least 1 X 2 feet, but the larger the space, the better. The sides of the enclosure should be at least 12" high. Because guinea pigs do not jump or climb, they can be housed in an open topped enclosure, like a plastic children's pool, as long as dogs or cats do not have access to it.

The best floor covering for guinea pigs is solid, covered with dust-free bedding of either soft wood shavings (aspen, for example), shredded paper, hay or commercial bedding pellets.. While their fecal pellets are relatively oderless, bedding should be changed weekly to control urine odors. Cavies are very sensitive to the ammonia in urine.

What Do Guinea Pigs Do All Day? Guinea pigs like quiet enviroments and appreciate having a box or tunnel in which to hide and rest. While your guinea pig does not need to be walked, it will enjoy wandering outside its cage. Like all rodents, guinea pigs explore their world through nibbling on new items; therefore, you should check their play area for any potential hazards.

Most Common Diseases in Guinea Pigs: Many common disease conditions in guinea pigs are the result of malnutrition. Visiting your exotic animal veterinarian for routine health checks will help prevent many diseases and support you in having a long, satisfying relationship with your guinea pig.

Many common disease conditions in guinea pigs are the result of malnutrition. Visiting your exotic animal veterinarian for routine health checks will help prevent many diseases and support you in having a long, satisfying relationship with your guinea pig.

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WHAT TO EXPECT FROM YOUR RABBIT

Rabbits belong to a group of animals called lagomorphs, which includes both the domesticated and wild rabbits. They are not rodents. Free-ranging rabbits are abundant in Western Europe, North and South America, Australia and New Zealand, where they live in underground burrows.

Rabbits are not trapped in the wild for the pet trade because free-ranging rabbits do not adapt well to captivity. Most people purchase their rabbits from pet stores. These rabbits are usually bred by hobbyists. Some breeders produce pure-bred rabbits for the pet and show industries.

There are about 45 different breeds of rabbit. The most popular pet breeds are the New Zealand White, the Angora, the Netherland Dwarf, the Dutch, the Lop (Holland and Mini), and the Mimi Rex.

Rabbits are naturally coprophagous: they ingest the softer, sticky fecal droppings they produce approximately four hours after eating. By this process, they get maximum vitamins and nutrition from their food.

Rabbits are quiet, gentle animals that make excellent pets. They have dynamic personalities and appreciate human interaction. The more time you spend with your rabbit, the more it will become tame, friendly, and bonded to you.

Rabbits like to explore, but also like to chew, so it is important to guard your home (furniture, electrical cords, wood) against their inquisitive nibbling when they are allowed to roam around your house. It is important to provide a stimulating environment for rabbits, such as the availability of toys. Toys may be as simple as cardboard mailers, paper towel centers, safe wooden toys made for birds, or PVC tubing.

A rabbit should be handled carefully, especially when removing it from its cage. Always support its hindquarters when picking it up, as its powerful rear legs can cause serious spinal injuries if it kicks while being handled.

Are Rabbits Tame? While it is usually gentle with its owner, a rabbit may kick, scratch or bite if it becomes anxious; therefore, play with young children must be supervised.

Rabbits can be trained to wear a harness and leash, and to use a litterbox.

Is Your Rabbit a Male or Female? It is advisable to take your rabbit to an exotic animal veterinarian to determine its gender because it is often difficult to properly sex a rabbit, especially a young one.

It is a good idea to spay or neuter your rabbit before puberty (4-6 months of age). This will guard against health problems involving the reproductive organs, especially in females.

What Should You Feed Your Rabbit? Rabbits should be fed fresh commercial rabbit pellets (without additives) and hay. Rabbits younger than six months can have unlimited access to pellets and alfalfa hay. Adult rabbits should receive no more than two to three tablespoons of pellets per five pounds of body weight per day. Alfalfa hay is too rich for adults, but they may have unlimited access to timothy or grass hay. Limited quantities (four tablespoons per five pounds of body weight) of dark green leafy vegetables can be given as supplements. Vegetables such as lettuce and celery are not good snacks, as they are not particularly nutritious. Drinking water should be provided at all times in a sipper bottle.

Where Should You Keep Your Rabbit? You should always keep your rabbit housed in a hutch, cage, or bunny-proofed room when you are not home. The larger the area, the better, as rabbits like to scamper about in bursts of energy. If you keep your rabbit outdoors, be sure it is sheltered from excessive sun and predators. Never let the ambient temperature around your rabbit's hutch exceed 90 degrees. If the hutch has a slatted or mesh bottom, provide at least a section of solid flooring, and do provide bedding in the form of soft wood shavings (not cedar) or recycled paper products. Your rabbit will appreciate a box for hiding and sleeping.

You will want to clean your rabbit's cage frequently (at least once per week), both for your rabbit's health, as well as to controll urine odor.

If you have more than one rabbit, keep your males separated from each other and from females. Be aware that non-neutered males will fight with each other whether there are females around or not.

Visit Your Veterinarian if You Notice Any of the Following Signs in Your Rabbit:

The single most important factor that causes disease conditions in rabbits is improper feeding.

Visiting your exotic animal veterinarian for routine health checks and discussion of the appropriate diet will help prevent many diseases and support you in having a long, satisfying relationship with your rabbit.

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HOW TO CARE FOR RATS AND MICE

Of all the rodents in the animal kingdom, rats and mice are perhaps the most maligned. Whether it's the bubonic plague or the kibble missing from Rover's bowl, these friendly creatures are blamed for crises large and small. Yet the popularity of mice and rats as pets is on the rise.. Here's how to care for the little whiskered fellows when they arrive at your home.

Foil the Great Escape: Rats and mice are specialists in gnawing and burrowing, so their enclosures must be escape-proof. A glass aquarium with a secure screen lid is ideal, though rats and mice can be safely housed in wire cages with mesh openings no larger than a quarter-inch. If you use a wire cage, pad at least part of the floor with cardboard or newspaper to protect the tender pink feet of the occupants. Rats and mice are sensitive to environmental extremes, so they should be housed away from direct sun and drafts-and, if possiblc, away from noise. Empty cereal and tissue boxes are inexpensive and make great hiding places, giving the rodents a sense of security.

Prevent War Wounds: Rats and mice can be territorial, so don't house strangers together. If your rats or mice have come from the same home, they can remain roomies-as long as they're of the same sex. A pregnant female should always be housed separately; she'll feel more secure when she gives birth, and will be less likely to see her babies as a Happy Meal. Beware: mice may look like little rats, but these two species should never be housed together.

Design the Master Bedroom: The phrase "I smell a rat" is a bit misleading, as rats are not particularly smelly animals. Both rats and mice are meticulous groomers, cleaning each other as some cats do. These rodents like tidy homes, usually reserving one corner of their cage for urination. If you provide a small litter box filled with unscented cat litter, rats and mice will probably use it only for pooping. For bedding, use shredded tissue paper, paper towels, or unprinted newspaper. Many rat and mice afficionados recommend avoiding cedar and pine shavings, which may irritate the lungs, kidneys, and livers of rodents. Change bedding every three to five days, leaving some of the used but unsoiled bedding behind-that "new cage smell" can be unappealing to the discerning noses of rats and mice.

Dinner's On! Good grub and fresh water should be available to rats and mice at all times. The animals should eat rodent chow as a mainstay of their diets; in a pinch, dog food kibble with a fat content below eight percent can temporarily substituted for the chow. Supplements of hard fruits and veggies-like apples, carrots, and sweet potatoes-will satisfy the pickiest eater. A hanging bottle of water will allow any rat or mouse to quench his thirst.

Toy With Their Affections: All play and no work makes a happy rodent, so give the rats and mice in your care plenty of toys. Exercise wheels can provide them with hours of fun. Empty paper egg cartons and paper-towel or toilet-paper tubes make good chewing and climbing material, and untreated wooden blocks satisfy their need to gnaw. Gnawing helps keep rats' ever-growing teeth in check.

Handle With Care: Because of their poor eyesight, rats and mice can be easily startled, so make them aware of your presence by talking to them and letting them smell your hand before attempting to pick them up. Make sure your hands are freshly washed, as rats may bite when they smell something tasty on your fingers (or when they are defending their babies). Handle rats and mice as you would a small kitten, being sure not to grab them by their tails. During cleaning, it may be easiest to allow them to crawl into a plastic canister; you can remove the container, rodents and all, for safe transport to another cage.

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HOW TO CARE FOR FERRETS

Pick Out Some Furniture: Ferrets' ancestors were den animals, so any home you create should be like a den, too. Use a wire cage that's at least 18 inches long, 18 inches deep, and 30 inches wide. Many ferrets prefer bi-level cages that feature stairs or ramps that ferrets can climb, and shelves or hammocks where ferrets can perch. An ordinary cat cage will work in a pinch, but avoid aquariums, which provide poor ventilation. Because ferrets are accomplished escape artists, the cage should feature a secure latch and openings no larger than one inch by two inches. Since wire flooring is uncomfortable on a ferret's feet, place linoleum tiles on the floor or line the cage bottom with soft material such as washable carpet. Not all materials will work, however; wood flooring is difficult to disinfect, newspapeer will blacken a ferret's feet, and cedar chips hold bad odors and may even cause respiratory problems. Place the cage away from direct sunlight, in a cool shaded area where temeratures range between 55 and 70 degrees. Clean bedding with a mild detergent and hot water, then disinfect the cage.

Teach 'Em Litter Literacy: You can save time cleaning a ferret's cage by simply teaching the animal to use a litter pan. Find a small cardboard or plastic tray that's three to five inches high to serve as a litter box, and secure it to one side of the cage, away from sleeping and eating areas. Clumping litter will irritate a ferret's eyes and may cause respiratory problems, so fill the littcr tray with one inch or more of pelleted litter products made from paper or plant fibers. Ferrets aren't as fastidious as cats and may not cover their waste regularly, so you will probably need to scoop the litter more often.

Show 'Em a Good Time: Like cats, ferrets enjoy their naps and will often sleep 15 to 20 hours a day. But when awake, ferrets like to be active, so the more you entertain them, the happier-and less mischievous-they'll be. Ferrets love to crawl through almost anything, including PVC piping, cardboard boxes, paper bags, clothes dryer hoses, and even denim blue jeans. Safely secure a toy to the top of the cage, and your guest may be content to bat the object around for a while.

Set The Table: Ferrets aren't known for their refined table manners, but by placing a heavy ceramic dish in the cage and attaching a water bottle to the outside of the cage, you should be able to prevent spills. Because of their high metabolisms, ferrets digest a meal in about three or four hours, meaning they may eat as many as seven to ten small meals a day. Ferrets are carnivores and their good health depends on a diet that contains at least 32 percent protein and 18 percent fat; high-quality dry ferret food or cat food should do the trick. For treats, provide melon, grain cereals low in sugar content (such as Cheerios), chopped broccoli, green bell pepper, or cooked eggs. Avoid dog food, which lacks the proper nutrients, and stay away from food that's sweet or salty, too.

Hold On Loosely: Ferrets are social creatures who enjoy visiting with people, so try to find time to let them roam in a secure area outside of their cages. Although they have a great sense of smell and acute hearing, ferrets have limited vision, which means handlers should avoid sudden movements and speak in a gentle voice before approaching. Because ferrets have fragile skeletons, you'll need to handle them carefully. Never pick up a ferret by the tail; instead, let the ferret come to you, then lift him from behind using two hands-one to support his chest and one to cradle his hips. You can also grasp the scruff of a ferret's neck and support his bottom with your hands. Remember, too, that ferrets are known to nip. If you point a finger at a ferret or poke him, he may think you're an enemy or a source of food.

Keep 'Em Clean: To put it kindly, ferrets don't always come up smelling like roses. A ferret's sebaceous glands, which are used to mark territory, secrete oil with a natural musky odor, and the animal's anal scent glands can spray just like a skunk's. Consider spaying or neutering the animal to minimize odors, or simply change the bedding frequently. Bathing a ferret with kitten shampoo, ferret shampoo, or diluted baby shampoo can also help. But too many baths will only force the animal's scent and oil glands to work overtime. Ferrets are prone to ear mites, so every few weeks their ears should be cleaned with a cotton swab soaked in a cleanser purchased at a pet supply store. Like dogs and cats, ferrets are prone to fleas and ticks as well, but a veterinarian should help you meet their needs by adapting the flea control program in place for dogs and cats.

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